About 2 and a half hours drive north from Nairobi lies one of the forgotten gems of wildlife tourism in Kenya, the Aberdare National Park. This park, founded in 1950, is 766 km2 in size, but it is unusual for the sheer variety of terrain. It cuts through the eponymous mountain range and encapsulates mountain peaks intersected by streams and waterfalls to dense forest and moorland.
Carving your way through the thick rainforest in your Land Rover, you would come across a glade with hundreds of buffalo.
The viewpoints are amongst the most sublime in Africa (sublime is an adjective which I cannot underuse for this continent.) We picnicked on a point with clear views of the snow-capped Mount Kenya a hundred kilometres away. The wildlife thrives in this fertile mountainous environment. As well as the big 5, you could be rewarded with a rare sighting of a mountain bongo or my preferred monkey, the black and white colobus.
Part of why this area is neglected on the tourist circuit has been the quality of accommodation. Old lodges coupled with under-investment equalled undesirable places for tourists to visit. This is changing. Just outside the park lies the colonial Aberdare Country Club. A club in name only, this colonial establishment with its own wildlife park and golf course is paired with the Ark lodge within the park. The Ark, so named as it in the form of a giant (Noah's) Ark, has been recently and tastefully refurbished and offers comfortable (if small) rooms with large viewing galleries and walkways. This is the prime reason why people visit this lodge. It is perched above a vast water hole that comes alive at dusk and night with the tread of herds of elephant and buck of all descriptions. One of the most thrilling experiences is descending into the bottom-most floor of the Ark and viewing these graceful giants through windowless loopholes only a few feet away from you.
Another pairing of establishments is the old colonial Outspan Hotel in Nyeri with Treetops Lodge within the park. Unless the other pair, little investment has been made in these establishments within recent years. This is a great pity. The Outspan represents old Africa, and like most of these hotels, they were well situated with the most stunning views and enjoyed generous and rich grounds. Treetops is mostly associated with the current Queen Elizabeth. It is there that she learnt for the first time that her father, King George, had died and that she would be Queen. The lodge has lived off this historic moment ever since and is a tired remnant of a great past. It is still worth visiting just for the views. Like the Ark, this lodge on stilts overlooks a watering hole with a salt lick. With floodlights at night illuminating the hole, you will see a microcosm of the African animal world drinking, wallowing and playing in this life-giving environment. These moments are magical and will make you forget the shortcomings of your hostelry.
The Aberdares is a short distance from Nairobi, and I would really recommend the visit. It is a perfectly contrasting match to the Masai Mara or Tsavo. I will certainly spend more time there on my return.
See Our selection of Kenya Lodges
Aberdare National Park Safari
Taita Hills Game Lodge
Taita Hills Game Lodge offers a truly exclusive bush experience, being situated in the heart of the Taita Hills Sanctuary, a private conservancy of 28,000 acres at the foot of the Taita Hills and adjacent to Tsavo West National Park.
A more budget-friendly option in the Tsavo West one cannot find.
Elewana Sand River Masai Mara
Elewana Sand River Masai Mara overlooks the Sand River, the endless plains and the grassy hills of the National Reserve.
Year-round wildlife sightings are nothing short of excellent; should one wish to view the annual migration, the best months for this would be August, September, and October.
Sarova Panafric Hotel
Sarova Panafric Hotel is idyllically located 5 minutes drive from the Nairobi central business district, amidst beautifully landscaped gardens in a quiet suburb of Nairobi; 153 hotel rooms in a range of standard, superior, club and suites are all decorated in a vibrant style.
One of the better hotels in Nairobi if you are looking for a more city-based experience with a swimming pool.
Ol Malo Lodge
Ol Malo Game Lodge is a privately owned game sanctuary on the banks of the Uaso Nyiro River in Kenya's wild and beautiful Laikipia County, overlooked by Mount Kenya and teeming with the elusive antelope and wildlife.
A truly magnificent lodge that offers views and safari activities that very few can match.
Saruni Wild Tented Camp
Saruni Wild Tented Camp is positioned on the Masai Mara plains bordering the private Lemek and Mara North Conservancies, surrounded by pristine, untouched wilderness.
A small and intimate camp with only three tented suites available.
Mara Nyika Camp
Mara Nyika Camp an intimate and luxurious tented camp tucked away in a quiet corner of the Naboisho Conservancy that borders the Masai Mara National Reserve.
Five of the most amazing tented suites, all with excellent views, including two family suites, are on offer: Nyika Camp, one of the best in Africa.
Lewa Safari Camp
Situated in the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, a 62,000-acre wildlife sanctuary near the northern slopes of Mt Kenya.
Lewa Safari Camp offers up some of the best wildlife viewing that Kenya as a country has to offer, to put it simply, a safari in the Laikipia is simply stunning.
Elephant Pepper Camp
Elephant Pepper Bush Camp, this 8-tented bush camp, is tucked away in a prime wildlife area, surrounded by the Masai Mara and her ubiquitous wildlife; it's a seasonal camp, which is taken down for a month or so in the rainy seasons.
Game drives are the highlight of one's stay here at Elephant Pepper, with fantastic wildlife and excellent guides.