I have been travelling in Africa for over three decades. In that time, I have been on countless safaris; by Land Rover, on foot, by canoe and horseback, up and down mountains and valleys. The sense of wonder and appreciation of natural beauty has never left me. There are, of course, individual animals which I prefer above all others. Some are large, very large and some small but all, for some reason or other, have endeared themselves towards me. I will start with the very large.
The African elephant is the poster boy for safaris. Huge and gracious, gentle and ferocious. I know he causes vast devastation wherever he goes. To eat one leaf on a branch, he will knock over and crush a century-old tree. And he eats a lot. On average, an adult will consume 150 kilos a day of vegetation. I have come close to these animals in the bush, sometimes steering too close and having to beat a hasty retreat. A recent invitation to Addo Elephant Back Safari Lodge near Addo National Park in the Eastern Cape was a chance to satiate my decades-long desire to touch and feel one in a natural setting.
Often in nature conservancy, there are moral debates. In this case, is this experience of going to ride on the back of an elephant little more than a circus outing by animals trained as performers? These arguments can never be won with each adversary tenaciously standing their ground. All I can say and write is that it was a wonderfully satisfying experience with no evidence that the elephants were stressed or distressed or unhappy in any way. They roamed the natural, mountainous bush setting with a couple of flyweights on their backs, eating at will. There was no saddle, and the handlers were mines of information about everything you ever wanted to know about elephants. In fact, that was one of the most satisfying aspects of the visit. The evident enthusiasm and love, yes, love, for their charges. We learnt a mine of information. An elephant's trunk has 50000 muscles and can hold 17 litres of water. Ears act as vast fans to cool themselves down. The exterior of their skin was a very hard leather, but the underside of their ears felt as soft as silk.
It is a difficult road to reach this exceptional Eastern Cape lodge climbing the rocky Zuurberg Pass, but that also is part of Africa; it should never be too easy. On arrival in this miniature Eden, it is another story. The rooms are made out of canvas and wood perched on stilts with wide decks maximising the mountainous and bush views. Every comfort is catered for with spa baths and Hemingway safari-inspired decoration. The public rooms and mess areas overlook a vast watering hole or communal bath for elephants if you prefer. No, this is no hardship, and that is the other side of Africa; you are here to enjoy certain romantic comforts!
Driving back down the pass, you can take a more conventional if equally appealing safari in the Addo National Park, originally designed to conserve a heavily poached elephant population but for the sheer sensual pleasure of being up close and personal to these magnificent creatures, I could not recommend this experience strongly enough.
Addo Elephant Back Safari
Kariega Main Lodge
Rates from R7 300.00 per person
Located on a scenic hilltop on the eastern side of Kariega Reserve, Kariega Main Lodge offers a serene and welcoming environment to immerse yourself in the beauty of the African bush.
With stunning views, harmonious blending with nature, abundant birdlife, and renowned "Big Five" safaris, this malaria-free sanctuary promises an unforgettable adventure for families and nature enthusiasts.
Shamwari Sindile
Rates from R16 260.00 per person
Shamwari Sindile: A luxurious retreat in the heart of the private Shamwari Game Reserve. Immerse yourself in untouched wilderness, surrounded by breathtaking views of the Bushman's River and the vast plains of the Eastern Cape.
Disconnect from the outside world and reconnect with nature. Embark on thrilling game drives, indulge in spa treatments, and create cherished memories at Sindile Safari Lodge.
Shamwari Long Lee Manor
Rates from R12 950.00 per person
Shamwari Long Lee Manor is a stunning Edwardian-style manor nestled in a breathtaking landscape. Its picturesque setting overlooking a tranquil waterhole and sweeping plains offers an enchanting experience.
Immerse yourself in refined elegance, surrounded by vibrant gardens, a refreshing swimming pool, and verandas perfect for wildlife observation.
Shamwari Lobengula Lodge
Rates from R11 265.00 per person
Lobengula Lodge in Shamwari Private Game Reserve is an enchanting relaxation retreat surrounded by untouched beauty. Immerse yourself in supreme peace and comfort, experiencing the vibrant spirit of authentic Africa.
Book the entire lodge for an intimate and personalised stay. Indulge in the captivating sights and sounds of the African wilderness with luxurious accommodations and unforgettable experiences.
Shamwari Bayethe Tented Lodge
Rates from R13 110.00 per person
Shamwari Bayethe Tented Lodge is an oasis of luxury nestled in the heart of the African bush. Each of its nine tented suites offers an intimate connection with nature without compromising comfort.
Bask in the glow of the African sun by your private plunge pool, or enjoy the thrill of a game drive exploring the abundant wildlife. As the day ends, gather around the boma for a unique dining experience under the stars.
Kariega River Lodge
Rates from R9 200.00 per person
Experience the magic of the Eastern Cape Wilderness at Kariega River Lodge. Nestled along the serene banks of the Bushman's River, this enchanting destination offers tranquillity and luxury.
Immerse yourself in the captivating beauty of the reserve, embark on thrilling game drives, and indulge in exquisite culinary delights while enjoying panoramic views of the river and wilderness.
Amakhala Woodbury Lodge
Rates from R5 440.00 per person
Experience the call of the wild at Amakhala Woodbury Lodge, your gateway to an unforgettable Eastern Cape safari. Nestled within the breathtaking Amakhala Game Reserve, this captivating destination spans 7500 hectares and offers the chance to encounter the "Big 5".
With its rich history and four-star grading, Woodbury Lodge promises a remarkable journey through this captivating Reserve.
Kariega Homestead
Rates from R64 000.00 exclusive use
Experience unbeatable privacy, exceptional service, and unforgettable wildlife encounters at Kariega Homestead. This luxurious exclusive-use lodge offers ultimate comfort, convenience, and tranquillity with dedicated hosts, knowledgeable game rangers, and skilled cooks.
Enjoy an intimate and personalized experience in this idyllic haven of luxury and natural beauty, perfect for small groups or families.