
I have been travelling in Africa for over three decades. In that time, I have been on countless safaris; by Land Rover, on foot, by canoe and horseback, up and down mountains and valleys. The sense of wonder and appreciation of natural beauty has never left me. There are, of course, individual animals which I prefer above all others. Some are large, very large and some small but all, for some reason or other, have endeared themselves towards me. I will start with the very large.
The African elephant is the poster boy for safaris. Huge and gracious, gentle and ferocious. I know he causes vast devastation wherever he goes. To eat one leaf on a branch, he will knock over and crush a century-old tree. And he eats a lot. On average, an adult will consume 150 kilos a day of vegetation. I have come close to these animals in the bush, sometimes steering too close and having to beat a hasty retreat. A recent invitation to Addo Elephant Back Safari Lodge near Addo National Park in the Eastern Cape was a chance to satiate my decades-long desire to touch and feel one in a natural setting.
Often in nature conservancy, there are moral debates. In this case, is this experience of going to ride on the back of an elephant little more than a circus outing by animals trained as performers? These arguments can never be won with each adversary tenaciously standing their ground. All I can say and write is that it was a wonderfully satisfying experience with no evidence that the elephants were stressed or distressed or unhappy in any way. They roamed the natural, mountainous bush setting with a couple of flyweights on their backs, eating at will. There was no saddle, and the handlers were mines of information about everything you ever wanted to know about elephants. In fact, that was one of the most satisfying aspects of the visit. The evident enthusiasm and love, yes, love, for their charges. We learnt a mine of information. An elephant's trunk has 50000 muscles and can hold 17 litres of water. Ears act as vast fans to cool themselves down. The exterior of their skin was a very hard leather, but the underside of their ears felt as soft as silk.
It is a difficult road to reach this exceptional Eastern Cape lodge climbing the rocky Zuurberg Pass, but that also is part of Africa; it should never be too easy. On arrival in this miniature Eden, it is another story. The rooms are made out of canvas and wood perched on stilts with wide decks maximising the mountainous and bush views. Every comfort is catered for with spa baths and Hemingway safari-inspired decoration. The public rooms and mess areas overlook a vast watering hole or communal bath for elephants if you prefer. No, this is no hardship, and that is the other side of Africa; you are here to enjoy certain romantic comforts!
Driving back down the pass, you can take a more conventional if equally appealing safari in the Addo National Park, originally designed to conserve a heavily poached elephant population but for the sheer sensual pleasure of being up close and personal to these magnificent creatures, I could not recommend this experience strongly enough.
Addo Elephant Back Safari
Kwandwe Ecca Lodge
Rates from R15 200.00 per person
Kwandwe Ecca Lodge, nestled amidst lush vegetation, offers a mesmerising panorama of a verdant valley and towering shale cliffs. With its harmonious fusion of architecture and nature, Ecca Lodge provides a truly exclusive experience.
Delight your palate, unwind in inviting spaces, and explore unique treasures in this epitome of refined luxury; it's the perfect escape for experiencing nature's beauty.
Shamwari Sarili Lodge
Rates from R160 170.00 exclusive use
Sarili Private Lodge, named after revered Xhosa Chief Sarili, offers a luxurious haven above the tranquil Bushman's River. With breathtaking views of the grassy plains, it provides an unforgettable safari experience in a malaria-free environment.
Shamwari Sarili Lodge is a secluded and tranquil relaxation retreat, perfect for families, groups, and friends seeking a blend of wilderness and luxury.
Amakhala Bush Lodge
Rates from R6 750.00 per person
Experience the majestic wildlife of Amakhala Private Game Reserve at Bush Lodge. Relax on your private deck or take a dip in your private plunge pool while immersing yourself in the beauty of the Eastern Cape and South Africa bushveld.
Embark on thrilling game drives in open 4x4 safari vehicles and gather around the fire pit in the evening to share stories and witness the stunning sunset over the reserve from this stunning safari lodge.
Shamwari Bayethe Tented Lodge
Rates from R13 110.00 per person
Shamwari Bayethe Tented Lodge is an oasis of luxury nestled in the heart of the African bush. Each of its nine tented suites offers an intimate connection with nature without compromising comfort.
Bask in the glow of the African sun by your private plunge pool, or enjoy the thrill of a game drive exploring the abundant wildlife. As the day ends, gather around the boma for a unique dining experience under the stars.
Shamwari Lobengula Lodge
Rates from R11 265.00 per person
Lobengula Lodge in Shamwari Private Game Reserve is an enchanting relaxation retreat surrounded by untouched beauty. Immerse yourself in supreme peace and comfort, experiencing the vibrant spirit of authentic Africa.
Book the entire lodge for an intimate and personalised stay. Indulge in the captivating sights and sounds of the African wilderness with luxurious accommodations and unforgettable experiences.
Amakhala Hlosi Lodge
Rates from R5 920.00 per person
Experience the ultimate Eastern Cape safari at Hlosi Game Lodge in the Amakhala Game Reserve. This upmarket safari lodge seamlessly blends authentic African hospitality with luxurious amenities.
Indulge in thrilling game drives guided by experienced rangers, and immerse yourself in breathtaking landscapes—the perfect destination for a romantic bush safari escape or a delightful family getaway.
Kariega Ukhozi Lodge
Rates from R9 100.00 per person
Experience the wild luxury of Kariega Ukhozi Lodge, a secluded Eastern Cape getaway where romance and adventure meet. Perched high on a hill, this exclusive safari destination offers stunning panoramic views of the Kariega Game Reserve.
Embark on thrilling game drives, indulge in gourmet dining, and immerse yourself in the natural beauty of the Eastern Cape. Escape into the heart of the wild at Ukhozi Lodge.
Kwandwe Uplands House
Rates from R63 600.00 exclusive use
Experience the epitome of luxury amidst the untamed beauty of Africa at Kwandwe Uplands House. Nestled in the rugged hills of Kwandwe Private Game Reserve, this captivating retreat offers refined interiors, picturesque surroundings, and breathtaking views.
With elegant touches and a comforting warmth, Uplands House is the perfect blend of sophistication and wilderness.