I have been travelling in Africa for over three decades. In that time, I have been on countless safaris; by Land Rover, on foot, by canoe and horseback, up and down mountains and valleys. The sense of wonder and appreciation of natural beauty has never left me. There are, of course, individual animals which I prefer above all others. Some are large, very large and some small but all, for some reason or other, have endeared themselves towards me. I will start with the very large.
The African elephant is the poster boy for safaris. Huge and gracious, gentle and ferocious. I know he causes vast devastation wherever he goes. To eat one leaf on a branch, he will knock over and crush a century-old tree. And he eats a lot. On average, an adult will consume 150 kilos a day of vegetation. I have come close to these animals in the bush, sometimes steering too close and having to beat a hasty retreat. A recent invitation to Addo Elephant Back Safari Lodge near Addo National Park in the Eastern Cape was a chance to satiate my decades-long desire to touch and feel one in a natural setting.
Often in nature conservancy, there are moral debates. In this case, is this experience of going to ride on the back of an elephant little more than a circus outing by animals trained as performers? These arguments can never be won with each adversary tenaciously standing their ground. All I can say and write is that it was a wonderfully satisfying experience with no evidence that the elephants were stressed or distressed or unhappy in any way. They roamed the natural, mountainous bush setting with a couple of flyweights on their backs, eating at will. There was no saddle, and the handlers were mines of information about everything you ever wanted to know about elephants. In fact, that was one of the most satisfying aspects of the visit. The evident enthusiasm and love, yes, love, for their charges. We learnt a mine of information. An elephant's trunk has 50000 muscles and can hold 17 litres of water. Ears act as vast fans to cool themselves down. The exterior of their skin was a very hard leather, but the underside of their ears felt as soft as silk.
It is a difficult road to reach this exceptional Eastern Cape lodge climbing the rocky Zuurberg Pass, but that also is part of Africa; it should never be too easy. On arrival in this miniature Eden, it is another story. The rooms are made out of canvas and wood perched on stilts with wide decks maximising the mountainous and bush views. Every comfort is catered for with spa baths and Hemingway safari-inspired decoration. The public rooms and mess areas overlook a vast watering hole or communal bath for elephants if you prefer. No, this is no hardship, and that is the other side of Africa; you are here to enjoy certain romantic comforts!
Driving back down the pass, you can take a more conventional if equally appealing safari in the Addo National Park, originally designed to conserve a heavily poached elephant population but for the sheer sensual pleasure of being up close and personal to these magnificent creatures, I could not recommend this experience strongly enough.
Addo Elephant Back Safari
Amakhala Quatermain's Camp
Rates from R3 830.00 per person
Experience the true spirit of adventure at Quatermain's 1920s Camp in the heart of the Amakhala Game Reserve. This rustic and charming 3-star tented camp offers thoughtfully designed suites for a tranquil stay.
Immerse yourself in an authentic safari encounter with exceptional game-viewing and thrilling safari drives guided by experienced rangers. Explore the wonders of the African wilderness and get up close to majestic creatures.
Shamwari Sindile
Rates from R16 260.00 per person
Shamwari Sindile: A luxurious retreat in the heart of the private Shamwari Game Reserve. Immerse yourself in untouched wilderness, surrounded by breathtaking views of the Bushman's River and the vast plains of the Eastern Cape.
Disconnect from the outside world and reconnect with nature. Embark on thrilling game drives, indulge in spa treatments, and create cherished memories at Sindile Safari Lodge.
Amakhala Hillsnek Lodge
Rates from R6 080.00 per person
Hillsnek Lodge is a secluded and picturesque safari retreat in the Amakhala Game Reserve. Surrounded by stunning natural beauty, this exclusive safari lodge offers a private and intimate experience for guests to immerse themselves in the tranquillity of the African wilderness.
Guests can create cherished memories that will last a lifetime with luxurious accommodations, attentive service, and various activities, including unforgettable safari adventures.
Shamwari Lobengula Lodge
Rates from R11 265.00 per person
Lobengula Lodge in Shamwari Private Game Reserve is an enchanting relaxation retreat surrounded by untouched beauty. Immerse yourself in supreme peace and comfort, experiencing the vibrant spirit of authentic Africa.
Book the entire lodge for an intimate and personalised stay. Indulge in the captivating sights and sounds of the African wilderness with luxurious accommodations and unforgettable experiences.
Kwandwe Ecca Lodge
Rates from R15 200.00 per person
Kwandwe Ecca Lodge, nestled amidst lush vegetation, offers a mesmerising panorama of a verdant valley and towering shale cliffs. With its harmonious fusion of architecture and nature, Ecca Lodge provides a truly exclusive experience.
Delight your palate, unwind in inviting spaces, and explore unique treasures in this epitome of refined luxury; it's the perfect escape for experiencing nature's beauty.
Shamwari Eagles Crag Lodge
Rates from R14 875.00 per person
Discover Eagles Crag, a luxurious and private retreat nestled within the Shamwari Private Game Reserve. Immerse yourself in breathtaking natural scenery and experience unparalleled serenity. With its timeless elegance and seamless blend of glass and stone, this hidden gem offers a profound connection with the natural world.
Escape the ordinary and indulge in an unforgettable experience that will leave you longing to return.
Kwandwe Melton Manor
Rates from R79 800.00 exclusive use
Kwandwe family-friendly "Melton Manor" with sweeping views of the river and mountains in three different directions, Melton Manor is a whimsical mix of old and new, a contemporary frontier farmhouse with a modern touch.
Kwandwe Private Game Reserve offers guests a luxurious "Big 5" safari experience.
Kwandwe Great Fish River Lodge
Rates from R15 200.00 per person
Experience the luxury of Kwandwe Great Fish River Lodge, where nature and elegance converge. Perched on a steep bank with breathtaking views, this Lodge offers unobstructed vistas and immersive encounters with wildlife.
Great Fish River Lodge's design reflects the rugged landscape, blending seamlessly with the surroundings. Step inside to a warm and inviting ambience adorned with antiques and cosy rugs.