
I have been travelling in Africa for over three decades. In that time, I have been on countless safaris; by Land Rover, on foot, by canoe and horseback, up and down mountains and valleys. The sense of wonder and appreciation of natural beauty has never left me. There are, of course, individual animals which I prefer above all others. Some are large, very large and some small but all, for some reason or other, have endeared themselves towards me. I will start with the very large.
The African elephant is the poster boy for safaris. Huge and gracious, gentle and ferocious. I know he causes vast devastation wherever he goes. To eat one leaf on a branch, he will knock over and crush a century-old tree. And he eats a lot. On average, an adult will consume 150 kilos a day of vegetation. I have come close to these animals in the bush, sometimes steering too close and having to beat a hasty retreat. A recent invitation to Addo Elephant Back Safari Lodge near Addo National Park in the Eastern Cape was a chance to satiate my decades-long desire to touch and feel one in a natural setting.
Often in nature conservancy, there are moral debates. In this case, is this experience of going to ride on the back of an elephant little more than a circus outing by animals trained as performers? These arguments can never be won with each adversary tenaciously standing their ground. All I can say and write is that it was a wonderfully satisfying experience with no evidence that the elephants were stressed or distressed or unhappy in any way. They roamed the natural, mountainous bush setting with a couple of flyweights on their backs, eating at will. There was no saddle, and the handlers were mines of information about everything you ever wanted to know about elephants. In fact, that was one of the most satisfying aspects of the visit. The evident enthusiasm and love, yes, love, for their charges. We learnt a mine of information. An elephant's trunk has 50000 muscles and can hold 17 litres of water. Ears act as vast fans to cool themselves down. The exterior of their skin was a very hard leather, but the underside of their ears felt as soft as silk.
It is a difficult road to reach this exceptional Eastern Cape lodge climbing the rocky Zuurberg Pass, but that also is part of Africa; it should never be too easy. On arrival in this miniature Eden, it is another story. The rooms are made out of canvas and wood perched on stilts with wide decks maximising the mountainous and bush views. Every comfort is catered for with spa baths and Hemingway safari-inspired decoration. The public rooms and mess areas overlook a vast watering hole or communal bath for elephants if you prefer. No, this is no hardship, and that is the other side of Africa; you are here to enjoy certain romantic comforts!
Driving back down the pass, you can take a more conventional if equally appealing safari in the Addo National Park, originally designed to conserve a heavily poached elephant population but for the sheer sensual pleasure of being up close and personal to these magnificent creatures, I could not recommend this experience strongly enough.
Addo Elephant Back Safari
Kariega Main Lodge
Rates from R7 300.00 per person
Located on a scenic hilltop on the eastern side of Kariega Reserve, Kariega Main Lodge offers a serene and welcoming environment to immerse yourself in the beauty of the African bush.
With stunning views, harmonious blending with nature, abundant birdlife, and renowned "Big Five" safaris, this malaria-free sanctuary promises an unforgettable adventure for families and nature enthusiasts.
Amakhala Quatermain's Camp
Rates from R3 830.00 per person
Experience the true spirit of adventure at Quatermain's 1920s Camp in the heart of the Amakhala Game Reserve. This rustic and charming 3-star tented camp offers thoughtfully designed suites for a tranquil stay.
Immerse yourself in an authentic safari encounter with exceptional game-viewing and thrilling safari drives guided by experienced rangers. Explore the wonders of the African wilderness and get up close to majestic creatures.
Shamwari Long Lee Manor
Rates from R12 950.00 per person
Shamwari Long Lee Manor is a stunning Edwardian-style manor nestled in a breathtaking landscape. Its picturesque setting overlooking a tranquil waterhole and sweeping plains offers an enchanting experience.
Immerse yourself in refined elegance, surrounded by vibrant gardens, a refreshing swimming pool, and verandas perfect for wildlife observation.
Kwandwe Fort House
Rates from R106 400.00 exclusive use
Kwandwe Fort House, an exquisite private villa, offers four beautifully appointed en-suite bedrooms, a private pool, an interactive kitchen, and spacious indoor living areas. Enjoy stunning views of the African wilderness from the veranda while the boma and firepit provide exceptional game-viewing opportunities.
With complete privacy and abundant space, Kwandwe Fort House in the Kwandwe Game Reserve combines the elements of a safari lodge and a luxury home.
Kwandwe Ecca Lodge
Rates from R15 200.00 per person
Kwandwe Ecca Lodge, nestled amidst lush vegetation, offers a mesmerising panorama of a verdant valley and towering shale cliffs. With its harmonious fusion of architecture and nature, Ecca Lodge provides a truly exclusive experience.
Delight your palate, unwind in inviting spaces, and explore unique treasures in this epitome of refined luxury; it's the perfect escape for experiencing nature's beauty.
Kwandwe Uplands House
Rates from R63 600.00 exclusive use
Experience the epitome of luxury amidst the untamed beauty of Africa at Kwandwe Uplands House. Nestled in the rugged hills of Kwandwe Private Game Reserve, this captivating retreat offers refined interiors, picturesque surroundings, and breathtaking views.
With elegant touches and a comforting warmth, Uplands House is the perfect blend of sophistication and wilderness.
Kwandwe Great Fish River Lodge
Rates from R15 200.00 per person
Experience the luxury of Kwandwe Great Fish River Lodge, where nature and elegance converge. Perched on a steep bank with breathtaking views, this Lodge offers unobstructed vistas and immersive encounters with wildlife.
Great Fish River Lodge's design reflects the rugged landscape, blending seamlessly with the surroundings. Step inside to a warm and inviting ambience adorned with antiques and cosy rugs.
Amakhala Safari Lodge
Rates from R6 080.00 per person
Amakhala Safari Lodge, situated in the scenic Amakhala Game Reserve, is a breathtaking sanctuary that offers an immersive and holistic safari experience. With its impeccable design and meticulous attention to detail, this safari lodge provides a perfect haven for rejuvenating your soul and immersing yourself in the magnificent wildlife of the Eastern Cape.
From the air-conditioned safari huts to the serene surroundings, every aspect of this retreat is crafted to ensure an unforgettable stay.