Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
Bayete Guest Lodge
Welcome to Bayete Guest Lodge, your gateway to an extraordinary experience at the majestic Victoria Falls. Nestled amidst stunning natural beauty, our lodge combines luxury and comfort with the rich cultural essence of Zimbabwe.
Here, you'll revel in a warm, inviting atmosphere with dedicated staff ready to cater to your every need. Embrace the beauty of nature and immerse yourself in an unparalleled hospitality experience that truly feels like a home away from home.
Tongabezi Lodge
Tongabezi Lodge, the first Zambezi River lodge on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, was founded in 1990 by Ben Parker and the late Will Ruck-Keene. It is a privately owned and run retreat, focusing on exclusivity and romance, with the warmth and hospitality of the Zambian people.
Days at Tongabezi have no fixed schedule and can be tailored to your preferences. Relax or enjoy various activities. Each house and cottage has a dedicated valet providing personalized service. The Treehouse cottage bathroom is renowned as one of the world's top five bathrooms.
Mukwa River Lodge
Mukwa River Lodge, located near Victoria Falls, offers luxury bush chic accommodation with a blend of local and international flavours. Enjoy a prime location opposite Zambezi National Park, adrenaline activities, child-friendly programs, and sustainable practices.
Experience 5-star service, exquisite dining, and wildlife sightings from your private deck. Just a short drive from Livingstone Town and Victoria Falls, it's an ideal base to explore the area.
Victoria Falls Hotel
Nestled in the heart of Zimbabwe, the Victoria Falls Hotel stands as a testament to timeless elegance and unparalleled luxury. With its rich history dating back to 1904, this iconic hotel offers a unique blend of classic charm and modern amenities, making it the ideal retreat for discerning travellers.
Just a stone's throw from the breathtaking Victoria Falls, guests can indulge in spectacular views, exquisite dining experiences, and the soothing sounds of nature, all while enjoying the impeccable service that has made this hotel renowned across the globe.
David Livingstone Safari Lodge
The David Livingstone Safari Lodge, situated on the Zambezi River, envelops guests in natural luxury. With Victoria Falls as its backdrop, the hotel offers an intimate connection to nature. Lush greenery surrounds the lodge, allowing guests to fully embrace the beauty of Africa.
Accommodation at The David Livingstone ranges from opulent river-view rooms to exclusive treetop suites. Each room combines modern amenities with traditional African design, ensuring a comfortable and stylish stay for all guests.
Toka Leya Camp
With just 12 tented suites, Toka Leya at the Zambezi River offers a tranquil safari experience. Surrounded by nature, the camp overlooks the river and its islands, providing a perfect blend of luxury and eco-conscious design.
The tented suites at Toka Leya are spacious and airy, featuring en-suite bathrooms, private decks with outdoor showers, and comfortable beds for a restful sleep. Each suite has its own peaceful view of the Zambezi River, where you can see elephants bathing in the water or hippos basking in the sun.
Pioneers Victoria Falls
Nestled just minutes away from the majestic Victoria Falls, Pioneers Victoria Falls captures the perfect blend of elegance and adventure. This charming upmarket hotel offers a serene retreat for those seeking luxurious comfort amidst one of the world's most striking natural wonders.
With stylish rooms and diverse dining options, guests can enjoy a unique experience that combines sophistication with exceptional service. Whether you want to relax or explore the surroundings, Pioneers Victoria Falls promises a stay full of unforgettable moments.
Royal Chundu Zambezi River Lodge
Royal Chundu Zambezi River Lodge is a luxury resort on the Zambezi in Zambia, the only Relais & Châteaux property in the country. Situated on a private 15 km waterway upstream from Victoria Falls, Royal Chundu offers 14 suites with stunning river views and abundant wildlife.
Less than 30 kilometres from Victoria Falls, it serves as an ideal base to discover Africa's iconic wonder. Whether for a romantic escape or a fun family holiday, Royal Chundu River Lodge will exceed your expectations.