Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
- Mukwa River Lodge
Mukwa River Lodge, located near Victoria Falls, offers luxury bush chic accommodation with a blend of local and international flavours. Enjoy a prime location opposite Zambezi National Park, adrenaline activities, child-friendly programs, and sustainable practices.
Experience 5-star service, exquisite dining, and wildlife sightings from your private deck. Just a short drive from Livingstone Town and Victoria Falls, it's an ideal base to explore the area.
- Waterberry Zambezi Lodge
Nestled in the tranquil landscapes of Livingstone, Zambia, Waterberry Zambezi Lodge offers a luxurious retreat in the heart of the wilderness. Wake up to the Zambezi River's gentle sounds and end your day with a breathtaking sunset.
With meticulously designed cottages and immersive experiences, every moment invites you to discover Zambia's natural beauty. Whether you seek adventure at Victoria Falls or birdwatching, Waterberry promises an unforgettable African and Zambian safari escape.
- Chundukwa River Lodge
Chundukwa River Lodge offers a luxurious retreat along the Zambezi River, providing a peaceful escape with river-facing chalets and family cottage. Enjoy horse riding, farm animals, and delicious meals in a serene setting just a short drive from Livingstone. Perfect for nature lovers seeking a dream trip to Victoria Falls.
Chundukwa River Lodge prides themselves on providing a unique and unforgettable experience for our guests. Surrounded by the stunning natural beauty of Zambia, Chundukwa offers a tranquil and peaceful retreat where you can relax and rejuvenate.
- David Livingstone Safari Lodge
The David Livingstone Safari Lodge, situated on the Zambezi River, envelops guests in natural luxury. With Victoria Falls as its backdrop, the hotel offers an intimate connection to nature. Lush greenery surrounds the lodge, allowing guests to fully embrace the beauty of Africa.
Accommodation at The David Livingstone ranges from opulent river-view rooms to exclusive treetop suites. Each room combines modern amenities with traditional African design, ensuring a comfortable and stylish stay for all guests.
- Ilala Lodge
The perfect base for exploring all that Falls, the Zambezi River and the Zambezi National Park has to offer. Ilala Lodge is a very popular choice.
Ilala Lodge offers 73 spacious rooms and suites all offering luxury and comfort. The ideal options for honeymoons, couples and families alike.
- The Elephant Camp
The Elephant Camp is located within the Victoria Falls National Park and is within a 10-minute drive of the Falls themselves.
An emphasis on exclusivity and privacy all the while surrounded by natural beauty and wildlife.