Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
Mpala Jena
Step into the enchanting world of Mpala Jena, where the splendour of Africa comes alive! This luxurious safari lodge offers an extraordinary blend of adventure and relaxation, perfectly situated along the scenic Zambezi River.
With its elegant design and commitment to sustainability, Mpala Jena serves as a sanctuary for nature enthusiasts and travellers alike. From soaking in the breathtaking views to indulging in gourmet meals, each moment is crafted to ensure a memorable experience.
Gorges Lodge
Gorges Lodge and Little Gorges lodge are built on top 200-metre high cliffs above the Zambezi River below, offering guests a more idyllic and peaceful experience away from the busyness surrounding the Falls and the town.
One of the betters safari lodges for those looking for a bit more of a safari experience.
Nkosi Guest Lodge
Nkosi Guest Lodge, nestled in Zimbabwe's stunning Victoria Falls region, offers comfort, convenience, and adventure. Surrounded by lush landscapes and a short distance from the iconic Victoria Falls, this charming lodge is an ideal retreat for travellers eager to explore the area's wildlife, scenery, and rich cultural heritage.
Nkosi Guest Lodge focuses on creating a personalised and welcoming experience for every guest. Nkosi prides itself on creating a personalised and welcoming experience for every guest. From well-appointed rooms boasting modern amenities to its tranquil garden setting, the lodge exudes warmth and relaxation.
Thorntree River Lodge
Thorntree River Lodge is a luxury river lodge located near the Livingstone Area on the Zambezi River. With 10 suites, it offers a recommended stay of 2-5 nights. Highlights include luxury safari suites with private plunge pools, proximity to Victoria Falls, and engaging staff.
Guests can enjoy birdlife, spa treatments, sunset cruises, and fine dining with African-inspired cuisine. The lodge's design blends modernity with local culture, providing uninterrupted views of the Zambezi River. Ideal for a luxury safari experience in Zambia.
Avani Victoria Falls Resort
At The Avani Resort, enjoy the best view of Victoria Falls. This 3-star hotel, The Avani Victoria Falls Resort, boasts adobe-style architecture and exceptional river views. Situated within Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park and just a short walk from Victoria Falls.
The resort features simple finishes with bright mosaics and fabrics, ethnic wall stencils, Zambian artworks, and timber and plaster ceilings. It consists of eight buildings housing guest rooms, restaurants, and a convention centre. The hotel stands out in the evening against the smoky vapour above.
Matetsi Victoria Falls
Nestled in the stunning landscape of Zimbabwe, Matetsi Victoria Falls combines luxury and adventure. This exclusive safari lodge on the Zambezi River invites guests to enjoy nature while experiencing exceptional comfort and personalized service.
With an impressive backdrop of diverse wildlife and stunning scenery, Matetsi Victoria Falls is the perfect retreat for those seeking to explore the wonders of the region, all while enjoying the finest in hospitality and amenities.
Chundukwa River Lodge
Chundukwa River Lodge offers a luxurious retreat along the Zambezi River, providing a peaceful escape with river-facing chalets and family cottage. Enjoy horse riding, farm animals, and delicious meals in a serene setting just a short drive from Livingstone. Perfect for nature lovers seeking a dream trip to Victoria Falls.
Chundukwa River Lodge prides themselves on providing a unique and unforgettable experience for our guests. Surrounded by the stunning natural beauty of Zambia, Chundukwa offers a tranquil and peaceful retreat where you can relax and rejuvenate.
Royal Livingstone Hotel
Experience the Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara, a 5-star oasis on the Zambezi River. With colonial-style buildings, lush verandas, and a pool overlooking the river, it offers 173 luxurious rooms and suites.
The Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara is not just a place to stay, it's an experience in itself. This 5-star oasis offers guests the perfect combination of luxury and natural beauty. The colonial-style buildings and lush verandas give the hotel a timeless charm, while the views of the Zambezi River add a sense of tranquility to your stay.