
Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.

With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.

Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
Royal Chundu Zambezi River Lodge
Royal Chundu Zambezi River Lodge is a luxury resort on the Zambezi in Zambia, the only Relais & Châteaux property in the country. Situated on a private 15 km waterway upstream from Victoria Falls, Royal Chundu offers 14 suites with stunning river views and abundant wildlife.
Less than 30 kilometres from Victoria Falls, it serves as an ideal base to discover Africa's iconic wonder. Whether for a romantic escape or a fun family holiday, Royal Chundu River Lodge will exceed your expectations.
Tintswalo at Siankaba
Step into the enchanting world of Tintswalo at Siankaba, where an unparalleled blend of adventure and luxury awaits you amidst the natural beauty of Zambia's verdant landscapes. Set against the backdrop of the majestic Zambezi River, this unique treehouse lodge offers an escape to those seeking an unforgettable safari experience.
With its close proximity to the iconic Victoria Falls and the abundant wildlife of Chobe National Park, Tintswalo at Siankaba is your gateway to a world of exploration, cultural richness, and serene luxury.
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, a premier destination perfect for those seeking adventure and relaxation in the heart of Zimbabwe. Nestled just a stone's throw away from the breathtaking Victoria Falls, this lodge offers a unique blend of luxury and natural beauty.
With stunning views, modern amenities, and easy access to local attractions, guests can enjoy the enchanting landscape and excellent hospitality. Whether on a romantic getaway, family vacation, or thrilling safari, Victoria Falls Safari Lodge promises an unforgettable stay with cherished memories.
Masuwe Lodge
Step into a world where the wonders of nature seamlessly blend with refined elegance at Masuwe Lodge. This intimate safari lodge, nestled near the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls, offers an exclusive escape into Zimbabwe's untamed wilderness, ensuring you feel privileged and special.
Whether you're seeking thrilling outdoor activities or peaceful relaxation amidst stunning landscapes, Masuwe Lodge, as a destination, invites you to discover the beauty and diversity of Africa in all its glory. With a variety of activities, from game drives to river cruises, adventure enthusiasts will feel excited and eager to explore.
Chundukwa River Lodge
Chundukwa River Lodge offers a luxurious retreat along the Zambezi River, providing a peaceful escape with river-facing chalets and family cottage. Enjoy horse riding, farm animals, and delicious meals in a serene setting just a short drive from Livingstone. Perfect for nature lovers seeking a dream trip to Victoria Falls.
Chundukwa River Lodge prides themselves on providing a unique and unforgettable experience for our guests. Surrounded by the stunning natural beauty of Zambia, Chundukwa offers a tranquil and peaceful retreat where you can relax and rejuvenate.
The Wallow Lodge
Embark on an unforgettable journey at The Wallow Lodge, where luxury meets the wild beauty of Victoria Falls. This exquisite safari lodge is designed for those who seek both adventure and relaxation, offering an intimate connection with nature in a breathtaking setting.
With its elegantly appointed tented suites and stunning views of the Masuwe River, The Wallow Lodge provides a unique blend of comfort and wilderness, ensuring that every moment spent here is unforgettable.
Tsowa Safari Island
Welcome to Tsowa Safari Island, a unique island lodge that offers guests a chance to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and immerse themselves in the captivating beauty of Zambezi River's wilderness.
With its luxurious tented suites and stunning natural surroundings, Tsowa Island serves as the ideal base for those wishing to explore the majestic landscapes and vibrant wildlife of the region, all while indulging in unparalleled comfort and hospitality.
528 Victoria Falls
Nestled in Zimbabwe's stunning scenery, 528 Victoria Falls redefines the safari lodge experience, blending luxury with nature's untamed beauty. This retreat features eight elegant suites, each offering sophistication and cultural charm, inviting guests to relax in comfort.
With personal service from attentive owner-operators, every moment enriches your stay. The lodge's close proximity to Victoria Falls and the vibrant local town ensures an exhilarating adventure is always within reach, promising an exciting and rejuvenating holiday.