Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
PheZulu Guest Lodge
Nestled in the heart of Victoria Falls, PheZulu Guest Lodge combines elegance with the thrill of African wildlife. This luxurious retreat offers spacious, tastefully designed accommodations and breathtaking views of the surrounding natural beauty.
Perfectly situated for adventurers and nature lovers alike, the Guest Lodge provides seamless access to world-class safari experiences and the iconic Victoria Falls, ensuring an unforgettable getaway filled with comfort and discovery.
The Wallow Lodge
Embark on an unforgettable journey at The Wallow Lodge, where luxury meets the wild beauty of Victoria Falls. This exquisite safari lodge is designed for those who seek both adventure and relaxation, offering an intimate connection with nature in a breathtaking setting.
With its elegantly appointed tented suites and stunning views of the Masuwe River, The Wallow Lodge provides a unique blend of comfort and wilderness, ensuring that every moment spent here is unforgettable.
Tongabezi Lodge
Tongabezi Lodge, the first Zambezi River lodge on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, was founded in 1990 by Ben Parker and the late Will Ruck-Keene. It is a privately owned and run retreat, focusing on exclusivity and romance, with the warmth and hospitality of the Zambian people.
Days at Tongabezi have no fixed schedule and can be tailored to your preferences. Relax or enjoy various activities. Each house and cottage has a dedicated valet providing personalized service. The Treehouse cottage bathroom is renowned as one of the world's top five bathrooms.
Mpala Jena
Step into the enchanting world of Mpala Jena, where the splendour of Africa comes alive! This luxurious safari lodge offers an extraordinary blend of adventure and relaxation, perfectly situated along the scenic Zambezi River.
With its elegant design and commitment to sustainability, Mpala Jena serves as a sanctuary for nature enthusiasts and travellers alike. From soaking in the breathtaking views to indulging in gourmet meals, each moment is crafted to ensure a memorable experience.
Mbano Manor Hotel
Mbano Manor Hotel is undoubtedly an oasis of luxury, nestled within the captivating beauty of the suburbs of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. This opulent retreat invites discerning travellers to indulge in an exceptional blend of elegance and comfort amidst stunning natural surroundings.
Every detail of Mbano Manor's spectacularly spacious suites and villa, exquisite dining options, and world-class amenities reflects exceptional thought, ensuring an unforgettable guest experience. The luxuriousness of the lodge is, without a doubt, one of the best in the region.
Mukwa River Lodge
Mukwa River Lodge, located near Victoria Falls, offers luxury bush chic accommodation with a blend of local and international flavours. Enjoy a prime location opposite Zambezi National Park, adrenaline activities, child-friendly programs, and sustainable practices.
Experience 5-star service, exquisite dining, and wildlife sightings from your private deck. Just a short drive from Livingstone Town and Victoria Falls, it's an ideal base to explore the area.
Tintswalo at Siankaba
Step into the enchanting world of Tintswalo at Siankaba, where an unparalleled blend of adventure and luxury awaits you amidst the natural beauty of Zambia's verdant landscapes. Set against the backdrop of the majestic Zambezi River, this unique treehouse lodge offers an escape to those seeking an unforgettable safari experience.
With its close proximity to the iconic Victoria Falls and the abundant wildlife of Chobe National Park, Tintswalo at Siankaba is your gateway to a world of exploration, cultural richness, and serene luxury.
Waterberry Zambezi Lodge
Nestled in the tranquil landscapes of Livingstone, Zambia, Waterberry Zambezi Lodge offers a luxurious retreat in the heart of the wilderness. Wake up to the Zambezi River's gentle sounds and end your day with a breathtaking sunset.
With meticulously designed cottages and immersive experiences, every moment invites you to discover Zambia's natural beauty. Whether you seek adventure at Victoria Falls or birdwatching, Waterberry promises an unforgettable African and Zambian safari escape.