Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
Insika Lodge
Nestled on the edge of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, Insika Lodge offers a luxury safari experience with stunning natural beauty. Capturing African charm, Insika provides a serene escape with exhilarating adventures.
With a choice of rooms overlooking lush gardens and waterholes, guests can immerse themselves in captivating wildlife and landscapes. At Insika Lodge, each day is a new journey as you explore the Zambezi River, enjoy gourmet meals, and experience the perfect mix of adventure and relaxation.
Toka Leya Camp
With just 12 tented suites, Toka Leya at the Zambezi River offers a tranquil safari experience. Surrounded by nature, the camp overlooks the river and its islands, providing a perfect blend of luxury and eco-conscious design.
The tented suites at Toka Leya are spacious and airy, featuring en-suite bathrooms, private decks with outdoor showers, and comfortable beds for a restful sleep. Each suite has its own peaceful view of the Zambezi River, where you can see elephants bathing in the water or hippos basking in the sun.
Waterberry Zambezi Lodge
Nestled in the tranquil landscapes of Livingstone, Zambia, Waterberry Zambezi Lodge offers a luxurious retreat in the heart of the wilderness. Wake up to the Zambezi River's gentle sounds and end your day with a breathtaking sunset.
With meticulously designed cottages and immersive experiences, every moment invites you to discover Zambia's natural beauty. Whether you seek adventure at Victoria Falls or birdwatching, Waterberry promises an unforgettable African and Zambian safari escape.
528 Victoria Falls
Nestled in Zimbabwe's stunning scenery, 528 Victoria Falls redefines the safari lodge experience, blending luxury with nature's untamed beauty. This retreat features eight elegant suites, each offering sophistication and cultural charm, inviting guests to relax in comfort.
With personal service from attentive owner-operators, every moment enriches your stay. The lodge's close proximity to Victoria Falls and the vibrant local town ensures an exhilarating adventure is always within reach, promising an exciting and rejuvenating holiday.
The Elephant Camp
Located in Victoria Falls National Park, The Elephant Camp offers a mix of adventure and tranquillity. With its intimate setting and luxurious accommodations, guests can enjoy the stunning natural surroundings and personalized service.
Whether you seek thrilling wildlife encounters or peaceful moments beside your private plunge pool, The Elephant Camp promises an unforgettable experience that showcases the breathtaking beauty and rich culture of the region.
PheZulu Guest Lodge
Nestled in the heart of Victoria Falls, PheZulu Guest Lodge combines elegance with the thrill of African wildlife. This luxurious retreat offers spacious, tastefully designed accommodations and breathtaking views of the surrounding natural beauty.
Perfectly situated for adventurers and nature lovers alike, the Guest Lodge provides seamless access to world-class safari experiences and the iconic Victoria Falls, ensuring an unforgettable getaway filled with comfort and discovery.
Tongabezi Lodge
Tongabezi Lodge, the first Zambezi River lodge on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, was founded in 1990 by Ben Parker and the late Will Ruck-Keene. It is a privately owned and run retreat, focusing on exclusivity and romance, with the warmth and hospitality of the Zambian people.
Days at Tongabezi have no fixed schedule and can be tailored to your preferences. Relax or enjoy various activities. Each house and cottage has a dedicated valet providing personalized service. The Treehouse cottage bathroom is renowned as one of the world's top five bathrooms.
Tsowa Safari Island
Welcome to Tsowa Safari Island, a unique island lodge that offers guests a chance to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and immerse themselves in the captivating beauty of Zambezi River's wilderness.
With its luxurious tented suites and stunning natural surroundings, Tsowa Island serves as the ideal base for those wishing to explore the majestic landscapes and vibrant wildlife of the region, all while indulging in unparalleled comfort and hospitality.