I have been travelling in Africa for over three decades. In that time, I have been on countless safaris; by Land Rover, on foot, by canoe and horseback, up and down mountains and valleys. The sense of wonder and appreciation of natural beauty has never left me. There are, of course, individual animals which I prefer above all others. Some are large, very large and some small but all, for some reason or other, have endeared themselves towards me. I will start with the very large.
The African elephant is the poster boy for safaris. Huge and gracious, gentle and ferocious. I know he causes vast devastation wherever he goes. To eat one leaf on a branch, he will knock over and crush a century-old tree. And he eats a lot. On average, an adult will consume 150 kilos a day of vegetation. I have come close to these animals in the bush, sometimes steering too close and having to beat a hasty retreat. A recent invitation to Addo Elephant Back Safari Lodge near Addo National Park in the Eastern Cape was a chance to satiate my decades-long desire to touch and feel one in a natural setting.
Often in nature conservancy, there are moral debates. In this case, is this experience of going to ride on the back of an elephant little more than a circus outing by animals trained as performers? These arguments can never be won with each adversary tenaciously standing their ground. All I can say and write is that it was a wonderfully satisfying experience with no evidence that the elephants were stressed or distressed or unhappy in any way. They roamed the natural, mountainous bush setting with a couple of flyweights on their backs, eating at will. There was no saddle, and the handlers were mines of information about everything you ever wanted to know about elephants. In fact, that was one of the most satisfying aspects of the visit. The evident enthusiasm and love, yes, love, for their charges. We learnt a mine of information. An elephant's trunk has 50000 muscles and can hold 17 litres of water. Ears act as vast fans to cool themselves down. The exterior of their skin was a very hard leather, but the underside of their ears felt as soft as silk.
It is a difficult road to reach this exceptional Eastern Cape lodge climbing the rocky Zuurberg Pass, but that also is part of Africa; it should never be too easy. On arrival in this miniature Eden, it is another story. The rooms are made out of canvas and wood perched on stilts with wide decks maximising the mountainous and bush views. Every comfort is catered for with spa baths and Hemingway safari-inspired decoration. The public rooms and mess areas overlook a vast watering hole or communal bath for elephants if you prefer. No, this is no hardship, and that is the other side of Africa; you are here to enjoy certain romantic comforts!
Driving back down the pass, you can take a more conventional if equally appealing safari in the Addo National Park, originally designed to conserve a heavily poached elephant population but for the sheer sensual pleasure of being up close and personal to these magnificent creatures, I could not recommend this experience strongly enough.
Addo Elephant Back Safari
Amakhala Bush Lodge
Rates from R6 750.00 per person
Experience the majestic wildlife of Amakhala Private Game Reserve at Bush Lodge. Relax on your private deck or take a dip in your private plunge pool while immersing yourself in the beauty of the Eastern Cape and South Africa bushveld.
Embark on thrilling game drives in open 4x4 safari vehicles and gather around the fire pit in the evening to share stories and witness the stunning sunset over the reserve from this stunning safari lodge.
Shamwari Riverdene Family Lodge
Rates from R11 995.00 per person
Experience the ultimate African safari at Shamwari Riverdene Family Lodge. Nestled in the stunning Shamwari Private Game Reserve, this family-friendly lodge offers luxury accommodations and a range of exciting activities for all ages.
With warm hospitality and a malaria-free location, Shamwari Riverdene is the perfect base for an unforgettable adventure in the South African wilderness.
Kariega Settlers Drift
Rates from R14 600.00 per person
Experience Settlers Drift, a luxurious 5-star safari lodge nestled in the heart of the Kariega Game Reserve. With elegantly spacious tented suites and breathtaking panoramic views, this exclusive haven offers the ultimate blend of luxury and tranquillity.
Escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and immerse yourself in the untamed beauty of Africa's wildlife. Surrender to the allure of the African wilderness and let nature's captivating beauty envelop your senses at Kariega Settlers Drift.
Shamwari Long Lee Manor
Rates from R12 950.00 per person
Shamwari Long Lee Manor is a stunning Edwardian-style manor nestled in a breathtaking landscape. Its picturesque setting overlooking a tranquil waterhole and sweeping plains offers an enchanting experience.
Immerse yourself in refined elegance, surrounded by vibrant gardens, a refreshing swimming pool, and verandas perfect for wildlife observation.
Amakhala Woodbury Lodge
Rates from R5 440.00 per person
Experience the call of the wild at Amakhala Woodbury Lodge, your gateway to an unforgettable Eastern Cape safari. Nestled within the breathtaking Amakhala Game Reserve, this captivating destination spans 7500 hectares and offers the chance to encounter the "Big 5".
With its rich history and four-star grading, Woodbury Lodge promises a remarkable journey through this captivating Reserve.
Amakhala Safari Lodge
Rates from R6 080.00 per person
Amakhala Safari Lodge, situated in the scenic Amakhala Game Reserve, is a breathtaking sanctuary that offers an immersive and holistic safari experience. With its impeccable design and meticulous attention to detail, this safari lodge provides a perfect haven for rejuvenating your soul and immersing yourself in the magnificent wildlife of the Eastern Cape.
From the air-conditioned safari huts to the serene surroundings, every aspect of this retreat is crafted to ensure an unforgettable stay.
Kwandwe Melton Manor
Rates from R79 800.00 exclusive use
Kwandwe family-friendly "Melton Manor" with sweeping views of the river and mountains in three different directions, Melton Manor is a whimsical mix of old and new, a contemporary frontier farmhouse with a modern touch.
Kwandwe Private Game Reserve offers guests a luxurious "Big 5" safari experience.
Shamwari Bayethe Tented Lodge
Rates from R13 110.00 per person
Shamwari Bayethe Tented Lodge is an oasis of luxury nestled in the heart of the African bush. Each of its nine tented suites offers an intimate connection with nature without compromising comfort.
Bask in the glow of the African sun by your private plunge pool, or enjoy the thrill of a game drive exploring the abundant wildlife. As the day ends, gather around the boma for a unique dining experience under the stars.