Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
- Old Drift Lodge
Old Drift Lodge lies on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River, an accommodation option that offers luxury, location and the best of what the region has to offer.
With incredible views of the Zambezi, Old Drift Safari Lodge is the perfect escape that honeymooners and romantics alike have been searching for. - Mukwa River Lodge
Mukwa River Lodge, located near Victoria Falls, offers luxury bush chic accommodation with a blend of local and international flavours. Enjoy a prime location opposite Zambezi National Park, adrenaline activities, child-friendly programs, and sustainable practices.
Experience 5-star service, exquisite dining, and wildlife sightings from your private deck. Just a short drive from Livingstone Town and Victoria Falls, it's an ideal base to explore the area.
- Tongabezi Lodge
Tongabezi Lodge, the first Zambezi River lodge on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, was founded in 1990 by Ben Parker and the late Will Ruck-Keene. It is a privately owned and run retreat, focusing on exclusivity and romance, with the warmth and hospitality of the Zambian people.
Days at Tongabezi have no fixed schedule and can be tailored to your preferences. Relax or enjoy various activities. Each house and cottage has a dedicated valet providing personalized service. The Treehouse cottage bathroom is renowned as one of the world's top five bathrooms.
- Sindabezi Island Camp
Sindabezi Island Camp, nestled on the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls, is a secluded haven. Being the sole bush camp in the vicinity, it provides a serene setting for an authentic African adventure. Guests at Sindabezi can relish the vistas of the Zambezi floodplain and the wildlife in the neighbouring National Park.
The journey to Sindabezi is a picturesque boat trip or a guided canoe excursion along the Zambezi, offering glimpses of wildlife along Zimbabwe's riverbanks. The attentive staff ensure that your comfort and requirements are catered to during your entire stay.
- Sussi & Chuma Lodge
Experience one of the best safari lodge stays in Zambia at Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma. Named after David Livingstone's friends, Sussi & Chuma, this lodge offers an incredible safari adventure on the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls.
Set in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, it provides exclusive access to a stunning African landscape. Encounter hippos, elephants, and diverse birdlife while enjoying views of the Zambezi River. The lodge features a spa, gourmet dining, and an infinity pool with stunning views. Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma Lodge near Victoria Falls promises to exceed your expectations!
- Avani Victoria Falls Resort
At The Avani Resort, enjoy the best view of Victoria Falls. This 3-star hotel, The Avani Victoria Falls Resort, boasts adobe-style architecture and exceptional river views. Situated within Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park and just a short walk from Victoria Falls.
The resort features simple finishes with bright mosaics and fabrics, ethnic wall stencils, Zambian artworks, and timber and plaster ceilings. It consists of eight buildings housing guest rooms, restaurants, and a convention centre. The hotel stands out in the evening against the smoky vapour above.