Your correspondent has been travelling and going on safari in Africa since the early 1980s. I have lost count of the many, majestic sunsets, of the unique wildlife moments accidentally captured by a camera and of the multitude of happy days with friends in remote places. Of all safaris, I rate the experience (along with riding on horseback) of canoeing on the Zambezi (upper) as one of the very best you can ever have in Africa.
We drove about 60 kilometres up on the Zimbabwe side of the river to be met by our river guides and crew. Make no bones about it, the guides are highly professional and know the river like the back of their hands. Like most Zimbos, they are relaxed in their manner and in sharing their knowledge but extremely switched on in terms of security and looking after their guests. We were due to camp out on the river banks for 2 nights and to make landfall not far from the town of Victoria Falls.
With a motley and inexperienced group of tourists from all points of the globe, our progress was remarkably quick, and that is the crux of the matter. The river does most of the work, you do not have to paddle hard and you just follow the guide. My constant bugbear over the years on land safaris has been disturbing the tranquillity of nature; of driving around in a Land Rover constantly turning its engine on and off to catch a sighting of game.
On the canoe, you just glide by; we passed a herd of elephant including babies drinking quietly by the bank. We were no more than 5 metres away and yet the elephant was not agitated or disturbed.
When could you do that in a vehicle? Further down the river, between a sandbank and the bank, we surprised a group of impala. The beauty of these gazelles running a few feet away from me in the water is a memory that has stuck with me for some time.
When our guide did speak, you listened as he did not waste his words with no purpose. “When you take the rapid, turn a sharp left as there is a pod of hippo dead ahead.” My partner and I listened, a Canadian couple did not. After getting in position on the side of the bank, we turned around to see what was happening to our kanuk friends. In a flash, we saw the huge jaws of a hippo open beside their canoe. I am not sure whether they did a trial that day for the Canadian Olympic kayaking team, but the effect was the same. You had never seen people paddle as fast and as hard. They lived to tell the tale and have probably recounted the story to many dinner guests in Toronto.
As always, the best things in life end quickly. This is an adventure I will repeat many times and will supply my anecdotes for dinner parties to come. The Zambezi is not the only river you can partake on these safaris but coupled with the beauty of the Victoria Falls, it is something special.
Canoeing On The Upper Zambezi
- Tongabezi Lodge
Tongabezi Lodge, the first Zambezi River lodge on the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, was founded in 1990 by Ben Parker and the late Will Ruck-Keene. It is a privately owned and run retreat, focusing on exclusivity and romance, with the warmth and hospitality of the Zambian people.
Days at Tongabezi have no fixed schedule and can be tailored to your preferences. Relax or enjoy various activities. Each house and cottage has a dedicated valet providing personalized service. The Treehouse cottage bathroom is renowned as one of the world's top five bathrooms.
- Chundukwa River Lodge
Chundukwa River Lodge offers a luxurious retreat along the Zambezi River, providing a peaceful escape with river-facing chalets and family cottage. Enjoy horse riding, farm animals, and delicious meals in a serene setting just a short drive from Livingstone. Perfect for nature lovers seeking a dream trip to Victoria Falls.
Chundukwa River Lodge prides themselves on providing a unique and unforgettable experience for our guests. Surrounded by the stunning natural beauty of Zambia, Chundukwa offers a tranquil and peaceful retreat where you can relax and rejuvenate.
- Victoria Falls Hotel
The famed Victoria Falls Hotel, "the grand old lady of the Falls", renowned for impeccable service, luxurious accommodation and exceptional facilities is without question one of the best options for anyone looking for 5-star accommodation.
- Thorntree River Lodge
Thorntree River Lodge is a luxury river lodge located near the Livingstone Area on the Zambezi River. With 10 suites, it offers a recommended stay of 2-5 nights. Highlights include luxury safari suites with private plunge pools, proximity to Victoria Falls, and engaging staff.
Guests can enjoy birdlife, spa treatments, sunset cruises, and fine dining with African-inspired cuisine. The lodge's design blends modernity with local culture, providing uninterrupted views of the Zambezi River. Ideal for a luxury safari experience in Zambia.
- Royal Livingstone Hotel
Experience the Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara, a 5-star oasis on the Zambezi River. With colonial-style buildings, lush verandas, and a pool overlooking the river, it offers 173 luxurious rooms and suites.
The Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara is not just a place to stay, it's an experience in itself. This 5-star oasis offers guests the perfect combination of luxury and natural beauty. The colonial-style buildings and lush verandas give the hotel a timeless charm, while the views of the Zambezi River add a sense of tranquility to your stay.
- Sussi & Chuma Lodge
Experience one of the best safari lodge stays in Zambia at Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma. Named after David Livingstone's friends, Sussi & Chuma, this lodge offers an incredible safari adventure on the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls.
Set in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, it provides exclusive access to a stunning African landscape. Encounter hippos, elephants, and diverse birdlife while enjoying views of the Zambezi River. The lodge features a spa, gourmet dining, and an infinity pool with stunning views. Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma Lodge near Victoria Falls promises to exceed your expectations!