Africa travel blog

Kenya Impressions
By Charl Grobler

Kenya’s wildlife remains at the heart of its attractions, yet there is much more to discover in this fascinating country outside the game reserves. You can climb the slopes of Mount Kenya to find tropical ice on the Equator, or explore the coral reefs of the Mombasa coast. Seek out the origins of man and a rich cultural heritage in Kenya’s Rift Valley. Or simply explore the country’s natural wilderness, from northern deserts to the wildebeest migration: the greatest wildlife show on earth.

Kenya has always been on the intrepid travellers wishlist. It is, after all, the place where the Safari originated. Kenya has been on the forefront of African tourism as early as the 1930’s when overseas visitors and explorers started visiting Kenya mainly for big-game hunting expeditions. Others came in search of solitude. Locals dubbed these expeditions “Safaris”.

Following the 2007 presidential election and the 2007-2008 Kenyan crisis, tourism revenues plummeted 54 percent from 2007 to 2008 and tourist arrivals more than halved. People’s perspectives of Kenya as a destination changed dramatically once footage of the violence that ocurred in certain areas was shown repetitavely on international television screens. Many people cancelled their bookings or opted to visit Tanzania instead, even though the main tourism areas were totally unaffected by the crisis.

Kenya’s abilitity to bounce back from the 2007 crisis is phenominal. I visited Kenya during October 2008, the end of their traditional peak season. I was amazed at the positive changes in the country since my previous visit in early 2007. The city of Nairobi has had a major cleanup, serious development plans have been implemented for Jomo Kenyatta Airport, and the locals are more than happy to welcome the steady increase in tourists.

On the Safari circuit, the game reserves are quieter than usual. This offers excellent game viewing opportunities without the masses often associated with the major reserves in Kenya. The road networks between the reserves are receiving a major upgrade and I am pleased to say that you will soon be able to halve the travel time from Nairobi to the Masai Mara by road thanks to a new tarred road being built by the lovely Italians.

With over 70 different tribes in Kenya you are surely going to have a rich cultural experience … the people are as diverse and contrasting as the landscape. One thing that does bring the people together is the realization that the natural resources of Kenya need to be protected. During my trip to the Masai Mara in October, local children were being taken around in Matatu’s (local transport). For many of these children, this is the first time they have seen animals in a wilderness area. Traditionally Park entrance fees have generally been too expensive for locals to even consider.

It is good to see that the Kenyans are getting to enjoy their own Game Reserves. They are also welcoming the return of tourists and have a renewed appreciation for their land and its attraction for foreign visitors. Most Kenyan’s you will encounter on your visit are extremely grateful and proud that you have chosen to visit their country

My 4 Day Kruger Adventure
By Nerissa Lategan

01 Oct.
It is definitely recommended to arrive the day before in Johannesburg you start the safari so that you can rest as the next few days will involve early wake up calls.

The tour I went on was a group of 13 agents on an educational with the newly merged company Bundu Intrepid.

As we got off our flight from Cape Town we were met at OR Tambo airport by the transfer company who transferred us to our pre-tour accommodation less that an hour from the airport, Amadwala Lodge. The owner is a friendly lady who, along with her staff saw us paired off and settled into our rooms.

02 Oct.
Our wake-up call was done with the beating of a drum at 05:00am.

On the first day of our trip, we receive little goodie bags with breakfast snacks and juice for the 5-6 hours drive to the Kruger. Driving time always depends on traffic, and whether there are accidents along the way. It took about and hour to get out of Johannesburg as there was an accident that morning on one of the highways. The driver therefore took a few detours; there is also a lot of road works taking place and mostly in preparation for the Soccer World Cup in 2010.

We had a few quick stops to stretch our legs and to have bathroom breaks, about 20 of us in total including the owners of the safari company and their employees. After midday, we could feel the rise in temperature. It is always a good idea to have some bottled water to keep one hydrated along the way.

We changed vehicles in Mpumalanga at Perry’s Bridge, where we got into two game drive vehicles. Each vehicle can seat up to 9 people. As we drove through Hazyview, we saw lots of the locals sitting along side the roads as well as other safari companies driving their game drives vehicles to and from the Kruger.

We entered the Kruger Park at the Paul Kruger Gate, where we stopped and had lunch. The temperature could have been around 35 Degrees Celsius. We had a game drive on way to our first camp site. The first night was spent at Skukuza Campsite. It was school holidays, so there were lots of families on holiday and school groups camping out with their tents and caravans. The public campsite was very clean and the ablution facilities well maintained.

Our campsite was already set up when we arrived and this was a non-participation trip. This evening we were welcomed by our chef, Lizzy who had prepared a great local South African meal – a Braai (Barbeque), pap (traditional dish made of corn) and lots of salads, followed by a delicious desert of warm custard and chocolate pudding.

As everyone was exhausted from the long days drive and heat, we headed to the showers and then off to bed. Though some took a quick walk around the campsite.

03 Oct.
Another early morning start, wake up being at 05:00am again so that we could start our early morning game drive.

Afterwards returning to camp for breakfast – we had cereals, muesli, yoghurt, bread, cheeses, fruit salads and juice to indulge in. With all our luggage and sleeping bags packed, we head off to our next campsite with game drives en-route.

Around lunch time, we stopped at a picnic site where we ordered the most delicious cheeseburger and Kudu steak burgers. Tables were set under some trees, so it was nice and cool. There were some Vervet monkeys hanging around hopeful to get some leftovers – but the security guards keep a watchful eye on them!

Late afternoon we met up with SANPARKS to start our night game drive which leaves about 16:30pm. The SANPARKS guide/driver stops and explains each animal we see. We were told before we left on the drive that there are a few spotlights on the inside of the vehicle as well so the guests have a chance to try and spot some animals when it gets dark. The drive lasted about four hours – we saw plenty of Impala, Zebras, Elephants, Rhino and smaller wild cats.

Camp for the second night was at Satara. Just as we got off the vehicles to make our way to our tents, we were welcomed by a Hyena patrolling the fence of the campsite. They informed us that this particular Hyena always walks around this site . perhaps hoping to get a bite to eat!

Our chef this time was Godsave, who prepared two types of Potjiekos (a stew cooked over the fire in a metal pot): chicken and beef along with some fresh salads. The food is always delicious. As another day came to an end, we are informed of what the itinerary for the next day is and we then head for the showers and off to bed.

04 Oct.
The last day on the safari was to be spent at Thornhill Safari Lodge. We departed Kruger through the Orpen Gate and it was a couple of hours drive to the lodge. After arriving at the lodge, we had some lunch and time to freshen up before our night game drive which would be on open game drive vehicles. It was the most exhilarating feeling that most of us on the vehicle had ever experienced. Making our way through the reserve, we came across a huge herd of elephants. Before they approached us, we stopped in the middle of the gravel road and the driver backed up a bit to give them their space and not to let them think we were going to do them any harm. One male started making some scary noises but they passed us on both sides of the vehicle. They were extremely close – we all just froze and could not get quick photos as we were so scared and our hands would not stop shaking (but all was well!).

The sunsets in Kruger are really spectacular; one can never take too many photos. As the guides/drivers of the different vehicles communicate via radio, we were informed that a there was a lion and lioness a few kilometeres away. When we came across them they were just relaxing under some trees and between some bushes. Still trying to get over the shock and almost having heart-failure with having so many elephants near us, just to add to our excitement/adrenalin, we then have a close encounter with the lion!

These animals are so calm and relaxed and pretend they do not see us. This is the closet I have ever been to wild animals. It was such a great experience – a trip to Kruger is definitely recommended.

Just to add to our excitement, we saw a female cheetah with her three cubs. They were so adorable; as we were a lot of females on the vehicle – we just wanted to go and pick them up (I don’t think that would have been a good idea … especially with Mommy Cheetah around!) We then stopped for some sundowners before going back to the lodge.

Our last evening was spent having another delicious meal in the Boma area of the lodge. We had a chance to reminisce about how our last few days were spent. We also had to pre-pack as we were leaving to Johannesburg the next day.

05 Oct.
Everyone had the choice of doing an early morning guided walk to track some smaller animals, insects, birds and so on. After returning to the lodge, breakfast was all ready. The last hour was spent taking photos and greeting the guides and staff and we were then off back to the city life.

After a good few hours on the road, we stopped to buy some food for lunch and we arrived back in Johannesburg around 18:00pm. We had some nice sundowners at Amadwala Lodge as this was our post-tour accommodation before our final supper. Gathering around the dinner table, speeches were made to thank everyone for partaking in this adventure.

Our flight to Cape Town was at 06:00am the next day, so we were up at about 04:00am to get the transfer to the airport…and then goodbyes were said. All in all, it was a great trip and one I would highly recommend to visitors.

We moved in to our fantastic new offices on the 1st of March in front of the Victorian era Muizenberg railway station. The building was an old English/Dutch blockhouse of the late 1700’s and so must rank up there as one of the oldest buildings in the country.

Muizenberg has come a long way to restoring its image as a must go to seaside resort. Since the late 1990’s, when the area was infested with slum landlords, drugs and prostitution, over 90% of the town has been cleaned up, villains evicted and buildings restored.

What has emerged is a rare gem of a seaside resort, oozing character with its classic Edwardian/Victorian architecture coupled with a relaxed slightly bohemian atmosphere at its village core with a more hip surf culture on its beach front. You’ve got to remember, this is not Camp’s Bay, you can actually swim in these warmer waters and surf of course. In any case, this is an area which suits the Uyaphi style and in that spirit, we want to support and promote this town.

Hence our sponsorship of the beach soccer tournament at the inaugural Muizenberg Community Festival, on Saturday morning. Three teams slid on the sand and played ball for the Uyaphi.Com Trophy on the main beach by the famous coloured beach huts of Muizenberg. The Uyaphi team was out in force to cheer on the teams and generally enjoy the vibe and good spirit of the day. As you can see from the photos, it was one of those perfect days; the sun was shining, no wind, the camera framing a picture of coloured beach huts, the blue waters of False Bay with the Hottentot Holland mountains behind. The trophy was won appropriately by the Muizenberg team. The competition was enjoyed so much by players and spectators alike that the organizers hope to establish a weekly league and, we at Uyaphi, will certainly be supporting those efforts.

So thats how it goes in South Africa, private enterprise giving a helping hand to the local community and all of us, enjoying the benefits.

• Cape Town accommodation
• Cape Town Travel
• Western Cape Tours
• Cape Town day tours

(ps. please excuse the quality of the images – they were taken by cellphone!)

I recently joined a group of friends at one of Cape Town’s latest eateries, Addis in Cape.

Most of the time when I told people I was invited to an Ethiopian restaurant, I was regaled with all the old Ethiopian famine jokes and comments on whether food would actually be served at the place. I must admit I did not know what to expect … but I was very pleasantly surprised.

Addis in Cape is the latest addition to the eating culture in Cape Town’s trendy Long Street. The area comes alive at night and I notice that the number of African themed eateries is growing alongside the other trendy shops, restaurants, bars and nightclubs.

Addis in Cape offers a uniquely African experience in sophisticated surroundings. Located in an historic Cape Dutch building in Long Street, it comes complete with polished Oregon pine floors, long steep Dutch style staircases and beautiful artwork from Ethiopia.

Dining is casual. Guests sit on low wooden Ethiopian chairs around a small round grass table with complete with a unique cone lid. Food is presented in large enamel bowls which slot snugly into the table under the cone.

We shared a selection from the set menu, a lovely sociable way to dine. Most meals are accompanied by spiced Injera bread. This looks like a large round pancake and is the staple food in Ethiopia. It is traditionally made with a grain unique to Ethiopia, but Addis in Cape substitutes rice flour. The bread is light and slightly sour tasting, pepped up with a unique Ethiopian spice blend on top.

The meal begins with a charming hand washing ceremony. The waiters bring around a bowl and earthenware jug of warm water. Each person takes a turn to wash their hands and is presented with a crisp linen serviette to lay on their laps.

We soon realise why : Read the rest of this entry »

Rhynchocyon udzungwensis is a curious creature with spindly legs, about the size of a cat.

The new addition to the sengi family was first spotted in 2005 when Francesco Rovero of the Trento Museum of Natural Sciences in Italy set up motion-sensing cameras in the forests of Tanzania’s Eastern Arc Mountains.

A photograph appeared of a creature with a long snout that no-one could identify. It was only a year later that a team expedition laid traps to catch live specimens of the creature they suspected was a new species. The traps they brought along were not really big enough for this giant among elephant shrews, so the team had to rely on the traditional hunting snares instead.

They finally managed to capture 4 of the animals and could confirm that this was indeed a new species of elephant shrew. The elephant-shrews are mammals of an order called Macroscelidea; from the Greek meaning “long legs”. Though they have some resemblance, they are actually not related to the shrew – a small mouse like animal found in many parts of the world. Scientists now prefer using the African name “sengi” to prevent the confusion with shrews.

Sengi form their own order of mammal, and get their common name from their long elephant-like snout which they use to flick up tasty insects. Curiously, genetics has shown that sengi share a common ancestor (estimated to have lived about 100 million years ago) with golden-moles, the aardvark, manatees, dugongs, hyraxes … and their namesake elephants!

Rhynchocyon udzungwensis, or gray-faced sengi, is the first new species of sengi to be discovered in more than a century. It is much larger than the other species, weighing in at 700g and measuring about 30cm in length. It has a distinctive grey colouring on its face and black lower rump.

There is a lot of pressure on the forests from surrounding villages and the sengi are known to be on the menu of local tribes people. The creature will probably join the endangered species list, but is probably saved from extinction by its remote location in the heart of the mountain forests.

Udzungwa Mountains National Park

This exciting new species discovery was made in the remote Udzungwa Mountains National Park, a 1990 km2 area in south central Tanzania. Lohomero, its highest peak lies at 2,576 metres above sea level.

The name Udzungwa probably originates from a distortion of the name of one of the tribes living on the slopes of the Mountains, “wadsungwa”.

These mountains form part of the Eastern Arc, a mountain chain of isolated mountains running through Tanzania and southern Kenya. They are covered in spectacular forests which receive a lot of rain from the prevailing east wind carrying humid air from the Indian Ocean. The eastern arc is a “World Biodiversity Hotspot” which excites scientists with the large number of plant and animal species endemic to this part of the world.

The surrounding lands have been deforested by the pressure and needs of the people living in inland Tanzania. And so, the mountain forests have become islands in-between the arid heavily populated savannah land. These forest islands are home to over 30% of Tanzania’s plant and animal species. The much loved African violet, which graces homes all around the world, originates in these forests.

The region harbors at least 100 species of mammals, birds, amphibians, and other vertebrates found nowhere else on earth, making it one of the densest concentrations of endemic species.

And … the gray-faced sengi is the latest addition to the list of creatures known to call Udzungwa home.

Click here to view a map of the eastern arc mountains.